Who invented the bra? Many credit Caresse Crosby (Mary Phelps Jacob) with its creation in 1910 when she sought an alternative to the restrictive boned corset. Using two handkerchiefs and a ribbon, she crafted a lightweight, flexible undergarment and patented her design in 1914. However, while Crosby’s design marked a turning point in lingerie history, the concept of breast support dates back thousands of years..
Ancient civilisations had their own versions of bras. Prehistoric women likely used strips of hide or fur for support. In Crete, 4,000-year-old paintings depict women wearing corset-like garments lifting the breasts. Greek women wrapped wide cloth bands around their chests, while Roman women wore two-piece ensembles resembling modern bras and briefs. The Middle Ages saw linen garments featuring distinct cups, marking an early precursor to the bra.
The evolution of the bra is closely tied to the corset, which emerged in the 14th century as tailored clothing gained popularity. By the 16th century, “stays”—firmly structured bodices—became essential for creating a conical shape while supporting heavy skirts. Corsets remained dominant until the late 18th century when the French Revolution led to a shift toward natural silhouettes. Short stays, early versions of bras, replaced full corsets, resembling today’s bustiers.
Corsets made a comeback in the 19th century, emphasising hourglass figures with steel boning and metal eyelets. However, as women engaged in sports like tennis and cycling, corsets proved impractical. The real turning point came during World War I when the U.S. War Industries Board urged women to forgo corsets, freeing up 28,000 tons of steel for the war effort. By 1918, over 50 bra brands were available, and corsetry was in decline.
The 1920s introduced bandeau-style bras, flattening rather than supporting the bust. By the 1930s, the bra evolved into a shaping device, introducing cup sizes, elastic, and underwires. The word “bra” became widely recognised. In the 1940s, bras became a wardrobe staple, and by the 1950s, bullet bras with torpedo-shaped cups were the height of fashion.
The 1960s and 70s favoured a natural look with sheer, flexible fabrics, leading to the invention of the sports bra in the late 1970s. The 1980s saw structured bras and the rise of “invisible” designs for seamless wear. The 1990s ushered in deep plunges and push-up padding, while the 2000s popularised seamless, moulded foam-cup bras, creating the smooth shape seen today.
More recently, bralettes have made a comeback, embracing comfort and a natural silhouette. With fashion’s cyclical nature, past trends may return, but one thing remains clear—the bra continues to evolve, reflecting societal changes and women’s needs. What’s next for this essential garment? Only time will tell.